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Montenegro - In Stari Bar at sunset

Stari Bar is an extraordinary place – it is my thought strolling around the first little street of the town, though I visited all the old towns on the seaside of Montenegro, from Herceg Novi to Ulcinj. I am taking photos, being curious - peeking a look into dark corners of narrow, tortuous alleys. Low but high-density housing, sleepy but pleasant atmosphere. Walking through a cobbled street, I am looking easily into the small houses' interiors. Two rooms and a hallway, two windows looking at benches and tables by the wayside leading to the oldest area of the town. Three kids outside the little house are waiting for dinner, which is being prepared by their mum. The calm of late afternoon, a soft buzz of conversation and cicadas. Fancy sitting for a while in one of the coffee bars and talking with locals. A sudden moan of the muezzin from the nearby minaret keeps me from doing it. When the muezzin calls for prayer in the evening, it is not a moment too soon for photo taking. In that golden hour, the light starts to be the best. 

Children on bench outside yellow house; woman in doorway, Montenegro. Sunset in Stari Bar
Stone archway frames a view of a village with trees and buildings

The mosaic of different cultures

The borderland – although this term can easily be used to describe the whole Balkans, it is the place where you can see and feel it most deeply.  The area has a contemporary, strong, and substantial occurrence of being such a melting pot. Venetian of yore, Stari Bar is nowadays settled mainly by Albanians who illegally immigrate from Kosovo and Albania. They only have to transit the limitrophe Szkoder Lake and then cross the Rumija massif.

Stone walls in Stari Bar, two people on the rampart, Montenegro. Sunset view.
Stone church lit at sunset, shadows and blue sky Montenegro. In Stari Bar.
Night scene of a building with visible text, lit street, and ambiance.

The picturesque ruins

We are strolling around Antibarums ruins, the town named by the Roman founders as a counterpoint to the city of Bari located on the opposite, Italian shore of the Adriatic Sea. Dozens of totally ruined and fairly unspoiled ancient buildings make a terrific impression and give a good sense of the former glory of that place. Temples, a well-preserved clock tower, palaces – architecture of the West, and from the other side, remains of Turkish reigns, like an aqueduct and Turkish traditional baths. The first city demolition was made by siege during the Russian-Turkish war in the 19th century, the second and final one by a great earthquake in 1979.

Stone arch bridge in valley with mountains, Montenegro. In Stari Bar at sunset.

Paradoxically, these plagues preserved that inimitable, genuine atmosphere. Sunset is making the Rumija Mountains fabulous now. Breathtaking scenery of color palette, changing in every minute like alive creature formed by rock layers and sunbeams taints, living incisively on a rolling hillside. There are only a few tourists in the area of the old town ruins and the fortress. Feast. For the eyes – ruins with an iridescent mountain background, for the ears – cicadas and muezzin, for the body – chill, and relief after all-day heat.

Picking the place

From the old ruins of the walls, we can now see the Adriatic Sea, misty at sunset, and the city of New Bar - the main port of Montenegro, and until recently the main way of Serbian mass-scale contraband. The outline of the hills and old olive trees, some of which are believed to be the oldest in the world since they have been around for more than 2,000 years, gives the landscape a kind of calm and warmth that even forces you to stop and calm down. The light is over; it's time to think about a culinary stop. It's completely dark now. We sit down in one of the little restaurants. Lanterns appear on the table. Lots of kindness - may be calculated on the more crowded return of tourists, or maybe just true?

The article published in FotoGea.com

Stone building with red roof, Montenegro. In Stari Bar at sunset, old town landscape.

© 2021-2026 by MARCIN WIERZBICKI EM-VOU PHOTOGRAPHY

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